Koch El Maguey Arroqueno

FIFTEEN YEARS OF GROWTH — Maguey Arroqueno is left on the hillside until it reaches full size, then cut and carried to the palenque of Adrian Bautista in Rio de Ejutla, Oaxaca, in the southern valleys SAVOURY AND TROPICAL — Lime peel and green herbs lead into syrupy cooked agave, mango and wet clay, with a briny mineral edge and ash rather than bonfire on a long and drying finish OAK AND MESQUITE FIRE — Pinas roast underground over red oak and mesquite for several days, ferment on airborne yeast, and run twice through a copper still with no sugars or flavourings added ROOM TEMPERATURE, NO ICE — Serve in a copita or small clay cup and let it sit a minute or two, then drink it slowly alongside grilled meat, aged cheese or a square of dark chocolate FOR THE AGAVE OBSESSED — Wild mezcals like this are what collectors trade notes about, so the 70cl bottle makes a serious present for a landmark birthday, retirement or fiftieth anniversary